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Fig. 9


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 [({Appendix 2})] Spatial variability of wave energy as a quantitative metric of hydrodynamic forces in the littoral zone. (a) Wave energy is represented for the first 100 m littoral shoreline. (b) For each sampling point, the wave energy is the average of the energies calculated for all spatial points included in a buffer of 50 m around the sampling point.

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